Sunday, October 28, 2012

Reflections on Food from Western Kenya


In terms of food security, the prevailing image of Africa remains one of widespread starvation thought to be caused by low agricultural production.  This warped picture has widely hindered the formulation of appropriate responses to curb this conundrum. Many people will actually tell you that they rarely think about their food security; in fact, consuming only one meal a day for a few months each year is not considered unusual. Instead, food insecurity actually pales in significance when compared with concerns for school or medical fees because food shortages have become so normalized. What is most puzzling to me today is that food insecurity here could be lessened and even avoided with a few relatively intuitive changes. However, these solutions become muddled when people have to adopt them; my Western sense of “reason” is maybe not “reasonable” here. Let me explain.  


Here, in a rural area along the Ugandan border, Western Province, Kenya, there are two growing seasons, nearly everyone engages in agricultural production, and the climate is relatively favorable. And yet, most people face food insecurity on a yearly basis. This can be attributed to a myriad of external pressures but largely to local agricultural practices. Firstly, everyone recognizes that their soil fertility has drastically declined with agricultural intensification. This is commonly blamed on the decreased land size inversely related to the tripling of the population in the past few decades. However, most people do not fertilize their soil with manure or compost but rather wait for cheap chemical inputs to increase their crop yield and resistance to diseases. Secondly, food is widely cultivated by the mother or the grandmother of the family (rarely by men or youth). This same woman is responsible for cooking and serving the food in addition to doing most of the household chores. All this does not leave much time to seek new information nor does it allow for the effective cultivation of the wetlands for example, which requires a lot of manpower. Thirdly, since most people practice rain fed agriculture, when it doesn't rain, food security is severely compromised. This year, the rains have not sufficiently fallen and so most people are expecting severe food shortages. This is already recognizable by the drastic surge of food prices at the village market and the increased monotony of the foods served.


Income and food vulnerability in the area (largely caused by the agricultural methods deployed) is also exacerbated by the crop varieties cultivated. The majority of people grow only 3-4 staple crops: maize, beans, groundnuts/peanuts, cassava, and small amounts of sorghum. Maize is prone to disease and failure if the necessary rain does not fall.  Cassava formerly provided many people with food security as it could be left in the ground until it was needed and lasted much longer than maize for example. However, due to the mosaic virus, which attacked the edible roots, cassava has disappeared from most people’s plates. As cassava and sorghum were typically prepared to make the traditional ugali (mush), sorghum has also vanished. At the same time, sorghum has lost its value in the kitchen due to its unfavorable color (it is brown and sticky rather than the more modern white ugali made of maize) and is thought to be better paired with meats that are rarely accessible these days. While sorghum and other traditional foods may be considered more favorable for the local climatic conditions and much more nutritious, few foods can be found in the cooking pots today.

 
From the histories recounted by elderly people in this area, the local food plate was traditionally very colorful, varied, and nutritious. People used to cultivate a wide range of crops such as pumpkins, yams, amaranth, finger millet complemented with fresh fish harvested from the nearby Lake Victoria, prepared and conserved meats, and dairy products such as fresh milk and ghee. “Those were the days” most people say nostalgically. People were healthier, had more energy, and were more secure. With time however, foods slowly disappeared from their diets. During the harvest season these days, a typical meal will most likely be composed of ugali (now made with maize but traditionally with sorghum, finger millet, and milk), collard greens (prepared with excessive amounts of palm oil and tomatoes but traditionally made with fermented milk), and perhaps some dried umena (tiny finger fish). At first, this seems to be quite a balanced meal; carbohydrates, vitamins, and proteins are identifiable. But eating this for every lunch and dinner for a few months with a cup of liquid porridge or some maize and beans as a snack in between can get quite monotonous and decrease one’s appetite. However, in the pre-harvest seasons, which can last from October-December and more severely from February-June, meals may be composed of just porridge and some ugali with a few vegetables if possible. Many attribute this narrowing food plate to a slew of external factors such as the climate, markets, and the lack of adequate aid while others blame their own laziness, the idleness of today’s youth, and malpractice.

 
The traditional grains, tubers, and vegetables have been recognized (by the Ministry of Agriculture and others) to fare best in the local climatic conditions. However, these foods have largely lost their place in the local diet. Reasons include that these do not have a good local market, they take longer to prepare and sometimes also to grow, they are unpopular among youth who have grown up with maize and white bread, and most people emulate the crops of their neighbor as the perceived risk of failure and  theft potential is otherwise considered too great. Only a select few individuals have opted for crop diversification and joining groups that specialize in chili production for foreign export for example.


Group that has specialized and diversified its agricultural production to ensure food security, combat malnutrition, and adapt to changing climatic conditions. They also produce honey, use compost, and seek and share agricultural information within the group. August 2012 
 
Attitudes towards change in this rural area have provided me with much food for thought . If I had grown up in a small village in Italy and was told to forgo anything containing wheat because it does not grow well locally, I would most likely be resistant. No more fresh pasta, sizzling pizza, sweet cakes, and warm bread? If I was Chinese and had never left my village and was told to forgo rice, I would probably ignore this suggestion as long as possible. Many will argue that this situation is completely different because people NEED to change if they are starving. Well people here aren’t starving as such and even if they were, physical 'needs' are not always prioritized. Many children are malnourished, but people live. People wake up every morning, work, eat, congregate, and laugh just like on most sides of the globe. People here also pick their battles; most are not absorbed by common poverty indicators such as sanitation and access to food and water but rather concentrate on coming up with school fees. It is my belief however, that many smallholder farmers here could kill two birds with one stone by cultivating diverse or specialized crops to ensure their food security and simultaneously generate income. But at the end of the day, will people change if they don’t think their situation in that particular regard needs to change or requires such great risk-taking behavior?


If anything were possible, I would tell people here to grow more traditional crops rather than climatically and nutritionally-unsuitable foods such as maize, to use manure and compost on their plots of land, to conserve (pickle, jar, dehydrate) foods, to join an agricultural group to access more information and the necessary funds, and to work together (women, men, and youth) in order to productively use all the available land. Others would suggest hybridized or genetically modified seeds, cheap farm inputs, and an export market. But as long as people have to implement these suggestions, a social rather than technical approach is imperative. For example, men will not readily help in the kitchen to conserve foods even if the returns are great because this is socially stigmatizing. Sustainable and context-appropriate change does not necessarily begin with large-scale investments or an NGO with a save-all project proposal. It begins with an open attitude and the access to appropriate or useful information by a smallholder farmer on the border to Uganda in this small Kenyan village.  The most effective mediator of this change still requires extensive exploration but it will most likely be a combination of individuals, NGOs, for-profit enterprises, or the government. Change is slow and challenging and few can do it alone. But the potential here for people to define their own sustainable development trajectory is immense.

 

**The application of these proposed solutions has proven effective in a neighboring location but requires further exploration. A historical understanding of past interventions, a more developed comprehension of social sanctions, value positions, difficulties regarding trust, and contending parallels of development are important to explore further.

Monday, April 9, 2012

Sabzipolo (Persian New Years Specialty)

 Happy Norouz! The 25th of March was the Persian New Year and thanks to our very dear friend, Don Chelo, we were able to experience this beautiful holiday in Amsterdam! Thank you!

According to Zoroastrian tradition, at the beginning of Norouz, each family sets a table with several items symbolizing health (garlic), wealth (coins), rebirth (sprouts), love (dried fruit), beauty (apple), affluence (wheat germ), sunrise (sumac), age and wisdom (vinegar), and life within life (fish in water).
This table remains set for the whole holiday, which lasts for 13 days.



On the first day of the New Year, fish is prepared with a special rice dish made with vegetables, herbs, and saffron.

Ingredients for 4 people:
2 cups dry basmati rice
1 tsp saffron
1 leek
10 sprigs of fresh parsley
5 sprigs of both dill and corriander
1-2 gloves of garlic
2 Tbsp frying oil (sunflower or corn)
2 tsp butter (for the final touch)
Cook basmati rice until water has been 1/2 absorbed. Finely chop all the herbs, garlic and the leek. Add these and the oil to the rice. Stir so that everything is well blended. Place lid on pot and let the rice mixture cook until soft. Before serving, add the saffron and the butter and stir well but slowly so that rice does not fall apart.

To complete Sabzipolo, white fish is baked or fried to accompany the rice dish. A quick and nice way to prepare the fish is to wash 2 white fish filets (we used Pangasius fish). Place in a baking dish and season generously with lemon pepper (or pepper and 1/2 lemon) and herbs of your choice (parsley or herbes de provence) and add 2 chopped carrots, 1 leek or some celery to your liking. Sprinkle with olive oil or buter and turn filets so that they are well coated. Bake in oven for 35 minutes or until the fish well done.

Serve with a nice glass of Shiraz wine!


Noush-e-jan!



Saturday, April 7, 2012

Red Lentil Dip

An easy, delicious, and oh-so-creamy dip quick to serve with some toasted baguette, pita, or naan. Great hot or cold as a starter, afternoon snack, or for your first spring picnic!

Ingredients:
2 cups red lentils
1 sweet potato
2 onions
5 cloves garlic
3 tbsp paprika
lemon pepper (or 1/2 lemon and black pepper), salt, and parsley to taste

Wash lentils and add 4 cups of water. Bring to a boil and turn down heat to a simmer and let cook until water is absorbed and the lentils start falling apart when you stir the mixture. Add salt, paprika and lemon pepper to taste.

In a frying pan, saute onions, garlic, and sweet potato that you have cut into little slivers (to avoid having to puree the mixture at the end) in a bit of olive oil. Add some water if mixture starts to burn and cook until the sweet potato is soft. Stir until the sweet potato starts to fall apart. Then add to the lentil mixture with shopped parsley. Add garlic and other seasonings to taste. Garnish with a finely chopped scallion or remaining parsley.


Eet smakelijk!

Lamb Tagine with Dates and Almonds

Our good friend Cardamoens took the challenge to cook a wonderfully-fragrant meal. After a week of hard work, there is nothing more satisfying. Thank you!

Lamb Dish

Inredients:
1 kg boned lamb
4 tbsp sunflower oil
2 small onions
1/2 tsp saffron
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1-2 tbsp clear honey
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 cinnamon stick
black pepper (plenty)
300 g dates
150 g almonds

Slice lamb thinly. Heat oil and brown lamb lightly. Remove lamb from pan and saute sliced onions and remaining juice. Add salt, pepper, cinnamon stick, and meat. Cover with some water and simmer for 60 minutes. Stir in honey, cinnamon, and pepper and reduce sauce. Add dates and cook for 5 minutes. Garnish with browned almonds.



Couscous Side-dish

Ingredients:
2 cups couscous (or more according to dinner party size)
Cinnamon stick
4-6 cardamon pods
600 ml vegetable broth
2 tbsp oil
2 shallots
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp honey
1 tsp salt

Mix coucous with spices and poor broth oer. Mix, cover, and let sit for 10 minutes. In the meantime, simmer onions in butter until brown. Then add honey, cinnamon and salt and poor sauce over couscous. Preheat oven to 200 C or 400F and place coucous in oven for 15 minutes (or until steamy).

Dankje wel!

Leek parmigiano risotto

After a long cycle ride against the Dutch wind, this is a perfect way to regain your strength and finish the day with a glass of white wine.
Ingredients:
Risotto rice
1 leek
1 yellow onion
1-2 cloves of garlic
1 cup white wine
2 cups of veggie stock
Freshly sliced parmigiano
Black pepper, salt, and a pinch of nutmeg

Finely chop onions, garlic, and leeks and saute them in a spoon of olive oil until soft and aromatic. Add the risotto rice and saute for a few minutes before adding the slowly adding the stock and white wine. Simmer lightly until liquid is absorbed and rice is cooked. Add more stock if necessary. Add a bit of the parmigiano so the rice becomes creamy. Season to taste with freshly ground black pepper, salt, and a pinch of nutmeg. Serve on a large plate and garnish with the remaining cheese. Finish with a sprinkle of black pepper.



Fijne avond!

Twee Appel Tartes

At the moment, many farms are getting rid of their 2011 apple harvest and so if you go to a farmer's market this week, you may find a large bag of cheap apples. This pairs nicely with a steamy cup of coffee or tea on a warm spring day.

Eerste appel tarte (the left tarte):
1 pre-made pastry dough (bladderdeeg)
4-5 apples peeled and thinly sliced
1 1/2 cups of quark or available substitute
3 egg yolks
1 tablespoon of armagnac or cognac
3-4 tablespoons of white sugar
1/2 jar of apricot jam
1-2 remaining egg whites (can save last on for the next apple tarte if you want to make both).

Place dough in baking dish and pre-bake for 5 minutes
mix quark and egg yolks until smoothe. Add armagnac and sugar and whisk until shiny. Remove pastry from oven, poor quark-egg mixture into form and bake for 15 minutes. Remove when starting to brown just a bit, and cover with apple slices. Mix 1/2 jar of apricot jam with remaining egg whites and poor over apples. Bake 30-40 minutes or until brown.



Tweede appel tarte (the right one):
Pastry dough
7 Apples
4 tablespoons of brown sugar
1/2 jar of apricot jam
1-2 egg whites

Place dough in baking dish and pre-bake for 5 minutes.
Chop 3 apples into small cubes and cook with a bit of water and brown sugar until soft. This should become a chunky applesauce.
Peel and slice the remaining 4-5 apples. Remove baking dish from oven and spread apple sauce evenly. Cover with apple slices. Mix apricot jam with egg white and pour over apple slices. Bake for 25-30 minutes of until golden brown.

Genieten van je thee and koffie tijd!


Zucchini Boats

Ahoj sailors! Jump on our zucchini boat for a quick vacation...

Ingredients:
2 zucchini (courgette)
1-2 onions
2-3 cloves of garlic (to taste)
Ground beef or tofu substitute (that's what we used)
1 jar of tomato sauce
4 sundried tomatoes
1 large bunch of basil
1 handful of grated cheese (Emantale, Gruyer, or Comte, or Cheddar)
Optional: 1 carrot

Hollow zucchini boats and keep insides to be added to the filling mixture later. Saute onion and garlic in a bit of olive oil and when translucent, add the ground beef. When beef is cooked, add tomato sauce and season with freshly ground black pepper and herbal salt. If you wish, add a diced carrot. Add zucchini interior to the mix and simmer until soft. Add fresh basil.

Fill zucchini boats that you have placed in a baking pan and sprinkle generously with the cheese of your choice. Bake for 30-40 minutes or until cheese starts to brown.

As a nice side dish: cook rice and before serving, add half of a very thinly-sliced (or grated) zucchini and sliced bits of sundried tomato. Garnish with basil leaf and a slice of fresh tomato.



Eet smakelijk sailors!