Sunday, October 28, 2012

Reflections on Food from Western Kenya


In terms of food security, the prevailing image of Africa remains one of widespread starvation thought to be caused by low agricultural production.  This warped picture has widely hindered the formulation of appropriate responses to curb this conundrum. Many people will actually tell you that they rarely think about their food security; in fact, consuming only one meal a day for a few months each year is not considered unusual. Instead, food insecurity actually pales in significance when compared with concerns for school or medical fees because food shortages have become so normalized. What is most puzzling to me today is that food insecurity here could be lessened and even avoided with a few relatively intuitive changes. However, these solutions become muddled when people have to adopt them; my Western sense of “reason” is maybe not “reasonable” here. Let me explain.  


Here, in a rural area along the Ugandan border, Western Province, Kenya, there are two growing seasons, nearly everyone engages in agricultural production, and the climate is relatively favorable. And yet, most people face food insecurity on a yearly basis. This can be attributed to a myriad of external pressures but largely to local agricultural practices. Firstly, everyone recognizes that their soil fertility has drastically declined with agricultural intensification. This is commonly blamed on the decreased land size inversely related to the tripling of the population in the past few decades. However, most people do not fertilize their soil with manure or compost but rather wait for cheap chemical inputs to increase their crop yield and resistance to diseases. Secondly, food is widely cultivated by the mother or the grandmother of the family (rarely by men or youth). This same woman is responsible for cooking and serving the food in addition to doing most of the household chores. All this does not leave much time to seek new information nor does it allow for the effective cultivation of the wetlands for example, which requires a lot of manpower. Thirdly, since most people practice rain fed agriculture, when it doesn't rain, food security is severely compromised. This year, the rains have not sufficiently fallen and so most people are expecting severe food shortages. This is already recognizable by the drastic surge of food prices at the village market and the increased monotony of the foods served.


Income and food vulnerability in the area (largely caused by the agricultural methods deployed) is also exacerbated by the crop varieties cultivated. The majority of people grow only 3-4 staple crops: maize, beans, groundnuts/peanuts, cassava, and small amounts of sorghum. Maize is prone to disease and failure if the necessary rain does not fall.  Cassava formerly provided many people with food security as it could be left in the ground until it was needed and lasted much longer than maize for example. However, due to the mosaic virus, which attacked the edible roots, cassava has disappeared from most people’s plates. As cassava and sorghum were typically prepared to make the traditional ugali (mush), sorghum has also vanished. At the same time, sorghum has lost its value in the kitchen due to its unfavorable color (it is brown and sticky rather than the more modern white ugali made of maize) and is thought to be better paired with meats that are rarely accessible these days. While sorghum and other traditional foods may be considered more favorable for the local climatic conditions and much more nutritious, few foods can be found in the cooking pots today.

 
From the histories recounted by elderly people in this area, the local food plate was traditionally very colorful, varied, and nutritious. People used to cultivate a wide range of crops such as pumpkins, yams, amaranth, finger millet complemented with fresh fish harvested from the nearby Lake Victoria, prepared and conserved meats, and dairy products such as fresh milk and ghee. “Those were the days” most people say nostalgically. People were healthier, had more energy, and were more secure. With time however, foods slowly disappeared from their diets. During the harvest season these days, a typical meal will most likely be composed of ugali (now made with maize but traditionally with sorghum, finger millet, and milk), collard greens (prepared with excessive amounts of palm oil and tomatoes but traditionally made with fermented milk), and perhaps some dried umena (tiny finger fish). At first, this seems to be quite a balanced meal; carbohydrates, vitamins, and proteins are identifiable. But eating this for every lunch and dinner for a few months with a cup of liquid porridge or some maize and beans as a snack in between can get quite monotonous and decrease one’s appetite. However, in the pre-harvest seasons, which can last from October-December and more severely from February-June, meals may be composed of just porridge and some ugali with a few vegetables if possible. Many attribute this narrowing food plate to a slew of external factors such as the climate, markets, and the lack of adequate aid while others blame their own laziness, the idleness of today’s youth, and malpractice.

 
The traditional grains, tubers, and vegetables have been recognized (by the Ministry of Agriculture and others) to fare best in the local climatic conditions. However, these foods have largely lost their place in the local diet. Reasons include that these do not have a good local market, they take longer to prepare and sometimes also to grow, they are unpopular among youth who have grown up with maize and white bread, and most people emulate the crops of their neighbor as the perceived risk of failure and  theft potential is otherwise considered too great. Only a select few individuals have opted for crop diversification and joining groups that specialize in chili production for foreign export for example.


Group that has specialized and diversified its agricultural production to ensure food security, combat malnutrition, and adapt to changing climatic conditions. They also produce honey, use compost, and seek and share agricultural information within the group. August 2012 
 
Attitudes towards change in this rural area have provided me with much food for thought . If I had grown up in a small village in Italy and was told to forgo anything containing wheat because it does not grow well locally, I would most likely be resistant. No more fresh pasta, sizzling pizza, sweet cakes, and warm bread? If I was Chinese and had never left my village and was told to forgo rice, I would probably ignore this suggestion as long as possible. Many will argue that this situation is completely different because people NEED to change if they are starving. Well people here aren’t starving as such and even if they were, physical 'needs' are not always prioritized. Many children are malnourished, but people live. People wake up every morning, work, eat, congregate, and laugh just like on most sides of the globe. People here also pick their battles; most are not absorbed by common poverty indicators such as sanitation and access to food and water but rather concentrate on coming up with school fees. It is my belief however, that many smallholder farmers here could kill two birds with one stone by cultivating diverse or specialized crops to ensure their food security and simultaneously generate income. But at the end of the day, will people change if they don’t think their situation in that particular regard needs to change or requires such great risk-taking behavior?


If anything were possible, I would tell people here to grow more traditional crops rather than climatically and nutritionally-unsuitable foods such as maize, to use manure and compost on their plots of land, to conserve (pickle, jar, dehydrate) foods, to join an agricultural group to access more information and the necessary funds, and to work together (women, men, and youth) in order to productively use all the available land. Others would suggest hybridized or genetically modified seeds, cheap farm inputs, and an export market. But as long as people have to implement these suggestions, a social rather than technical approach is imperative. For example, men will not readily help in the kitchen to conserve foods even if the returns are great because this is socially stigmatizing. Sustainable and context-appropriate change does not necessarily begin with large-scale investments or an NGO with a save-all project proposal. It begins with an open attitude and the access to appropriate or useful information by a smallholder farmer on the border to Uganda in this small Kenyan village.  The most effective mediator of this change still requires extensive exploration but it will most likely be a combination of individuals, NGOs, for-profit enterprises, or the government. Change is slow and challenging and few can do it alone. But the potential here for people to define their own sustainable development trajectory is immense.

 

**The application of these proposed solutions has proven effective in a neighboring location but requires further exploration. A historical understanding of past interventions, a more developed comprehension of social sanctions, value positions, difficulties regarding trust, and contending parallels of development are important to explore further.

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